I’m feeling all kinds of immense gratitude right now for the people in my life. This year started out rocky, and with a lot of loss in terms of wonderful human beings that left us before we got to do and say everything we intended with them—and of course, when do we ever reach that point, of […]

Triple Crown

My plans for the long weekend were patchy and unconfirmed as I set out in my car alone on Saturday morning, but I had three goals. I wanted to climb. I wanted to camp and explore more of the valley that runs out from the Coulee’s dramatic basalt columns into a dry glacial plain before […]

The tapestry of tribes

I remember exactly how I felt sitting in a cheap plastic chair on that little balcony during my first night in Cairo, feet propped up on the railing as I stared out at a softly glowing haze thick with dust and sand. Al Qahirah’s tradewinds blew a hot, dirty night breeze into our faces, and […]